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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.